
New York City was my forbidden fruit. It didn’t go with my identity as a nature writer, so I kept quiet about these urban forays. Wilderness trips I’d time so I’d get into the thick of humanity as swiftly as possible. After two weeks backpacking in the west end of the Grand Canyon, not using trails but roping and scrambling through shadowy gorges, I flew out of Las Vegas. That night, I was on the street in Manhattan.
With as little transition as possible, my eye felt sharpened, my skin prickled, and my nose lifted to passing scents: bakeries, car exhaust, gutter urine, and buckets of flowers on street corners. The city was a landscape. People I saw as rivers. Buildings were canyon walls. I dipped in and out of flows, walking streets and riding subways for ten to fifteen hours a day. In the early morning hours, I made it back to a third-floor room and small bed on the quiet glen of Jane Street in the West Village. My journal, rain dimpled and smeared from the field, dotted with the color of berries picked in Central Park, became a repository of urban observations:
Cigarettes mouthed as if they were hot cables of electricity, swept to the corner of the mouth, swept back down. Hated. Loved. Hated.
When I try to leave the Financial District, the city of barricades closes on me. I am walking in circles, but only in straight lines. Where is the sun? Which way do the shadows lean against the tallest of buildings? I cannot see.
On a prismatic September morning, the air rarified from here to outer space, I was on my way to a meeting in lower Manhattan. Emergency vehicles raced down Fifth Avenue and people rising out of a subway station ahead of me stopped stock still, all of them looking up.
You know the rest, you’ve seen it played over and over. People thought it was a movie only to learn it was real.
A woman covered her face with her hands and cried out that her sister worked up there. I pulled my journal and wrote down her words. It was all I could think to do. Reams of smoldering paper blew overhead; I wrote that they looked like birds on fire because that’s what they looked like.
Continue reading