Rail Trails, Towpaths, and Other Great Trails Along Failed Transportation Routes

A tunnel along the Great Allegheny Passage rail trail.

Some of the best trails run along failed transportation routes. Today you can bike or hike along abandoned canal towpaths, logging roads, railroads, or road roads. My favorites are the rail trails. They’re usually wide, smooth, and only as steep as the steepest grade a freight train could handle. I’m sure some mountain bikers and Tour de Francers think rail trails are bunny slopes for babies, but I love them.

I also love the great transfer of property from exploitative, extractive, polluting industries to public lands. It’s like beating swords into ploughshares, only for recreation. 

Lots of parks have interpretive signs that show the history of the trails and the land around them. Each one tells a specific story, but the general message is: Logging and mining companies bought the land for a pittance, brought in workers who had little power because they were Black or recent immigrants, paid them and their children miserable wages to chop down every tree and dig out all the coal, and then left a wasteland of erosion, mudslides, polluted rivers, and poverty. The old photos on these signs are horrifying—bare slopes, skinny kids, derailed trains, workers’ shacks, clouds of smoke. The land became worthless, so the Forest Service acquired it, let the forests grow back, reintroduced otters or red-cockaded woodpeckers, and now it’s lovely.

I bet many of you also read signs and markers along trails and roads. I visit West Virginia every year, where every tourist town has a cafe, hair-dresser, bar, or ice cream stand called “Almost Heaven.” And it is! But it wasn’t. The town of Davis, now surrounded by parks and forests, used to be nicknamed “Stumptown.” Historical markers across the state remind us about all the mining disasters. Miners were crushed by collapses, poisoned by gas, or blown apart by explosions. Many of the victims died when they rushed into a mine to save others. Those who didn’t die on the job died later of black lung. Massey Energy killed 29 people in 2010 and its villainous CEO has had the nerve to run for political office several times since then.   

Anyway, not everybody agrees, but the wind farms along West Virginia mountain ranges are beautiful

Hiking or biking along former logging roads and once polluted rivers is a great reminder that humans can devastate ecosystems, and that we can bring them back, or almost back, with proper environmental protections, conservation plans, government oversight, and popular support. We’ll need to remember this when we have a chance to build back the Environmental Protection Agency and all the national monuments and wilderness areas that are being devastated right now.

Upriver from Washington, DC, you can walk along former canal paths where mules towed boats past the Potomac River’s rapids and waterfalls. The company that built the canals went bankrupt and lost out to the railroads, which lost out to the highways. Maybe someday they’ll be bike paths, too.

Some of my other favorites: The Western Maryland Rail Trail (watch out for deer). The Great Allegheny Passage goes from Pittsburgh to Cumberland, Maryland. The Cuyahoga Valley National Park rails trails in Ohio run along a river once so polluted that it burned. Now it’s lovely. 

A rail trail from Baltimore to York, Pennsylvania runs through Maryland’s Gunpowder Falls State Park. It’s named for the gunpowder factory that used to operate there. Can you guess what happened to it? 

It blew up.

Interpretive signs along that trail show former fancy hotels (burned), towns (flooded), and bank buildings made out of stone. The banks are some of the only historic buildings still standing, and people have converted some of them into quirky homes. 

The trails also endure; people have been going from here to there and back again along these routes for centuries, sometimes for business but now, for now, for pleasure. 

Every Map Starts with a Lie

A map of the world published in 1961 by the U.S. Navy Hydrographic Office uses the Mercator projection. This projection distorts the shapes and relative sizes of the continents, enlarging them near the poles, but it preserves directions, making it useful for navigation at sea.

It’s not often that a map projection makes headlines. I have tried and failed to convince editors they are newsworthy. So it’s honestly exciting to see so many stories about the United Nations’ decision to adopt a new map projection. When I heard the news, I thought, “YES! They are ditching the Mercator. Good riddance!” I was pretty sure I knew why. 

To understand this decision, it helps to know a little about map projections. Because the Earth is a three-dimensional, round object, all maps have to distort geography in some way to fit that information onto a two-dimensional piece of paper (or your computer screen). Think of cutting open a tennis ball and trying to lay it flat on a table. There are five different aspects of geography that can be distorted to varying degrees during the flattening process: area, shape, distance, direction, and angle. Reducing the distortion of one of these attributes necessarily means increasing the distortion of one or more of the others. A map projection is basically math that dictates how things are distorted. Cartographers choose projections based on the purpose of a map.

 (More on map projections—including my favorite, the Armadillo — and how they work in an excerpt from my book All Over the Map below), 

The Mercator projection was designed for navigating oceans, so it prioritizes keeping angles and directions between two locations true. To make up for that, it distorts the size and shape of landmasses, making some places (notably Africa) look smaller relative to other continents, and it inflates the size of others (notably Europe and North America). People have argued that this also inflates the perceived importance of northern hemisphere countries relative to countries closer to the equator, which is what I suspected was the reason the U.N. ditched the projection.

Continue reading

A Little Night Music (Revisited)

Dueting with animals will always be thrilling for me, and I’ll always envision our melodic conversations filling a sound gap somewhere up there. Enjoy this memory along with me!

I had a conversation with an owl the other night. It was a barred owl, a pretty common species in the woods around our cabin in central Virginia. The bird got going early—well before dusk—and I happened to be outside with my native wooden flute (purchased from this lovely flutemaker in Canada), so I found similar notes and replied in the same pattern. There was a pause while cicadas and crickets took a turn. Then, the owl again. Four quick hoots, repeated twice, the final one dropping off into a guttural drag. I waited a few beats, lets the insects hum some more, then played again, the eight notes. Seconds passed. Then, the owl.

Barred owls aren’t just one-note birds: They have a variety of calls, more than a dozen by some counts, including one that you’d swear came from a monkey. But this was the one people like to say sounds like “Who cooks for you? Who cooks for you all?” (I’m not sold on that comparison, but it endures.)

It’s very possible, likely, even, that my flute playing had nothing to do with the owl’s decision to keep hooting. In my experience these owls will repeat the sequence at least a few times over a couple of minutes, regardless of any back talk. But I like to think we were conversing. There’s something magical about hearing a wild animal respond to you the way he would to his own kind, as if what you said was meaningful enough in his language to warrant a reply.

If barred owls weren’t so vocal, I wouldn’t know for sure they were around. Only once did I spy one, barely, as I pointed my flashlight beam into the big oak where a call seemed to be coming from. It was fully dark, but I glimpsed the bird’s eyeshine before he swooped toward me and then away, over my head. (A little anatomy: An owl’s eyes are super reflective, having an extra layer called the tapetum lucidum that snags light passing through the retina and bounces it back to what are already very sensitive rods.) The swoop was almost silent; I felt it more than heard it. Which is the owl’s way: The structure and texture of the wing feathers lets them funnel air very quietly by breaking up the turbulence that would otherwise whoosh.

But it was the calls moving through the air more than the bird’s anatomy that interested me that night. I thought about how the animal’s vocalizations in a sense fill a niche much as the physical animal does. It’s a more temporary residency, but still. I had the same notion some months before while lying in my tent in a rainforest in Borneo. I was listening, on my first night there, to the delightfully unfamiliar calls of wild things coming awake just before dawn. As cricket chirps were topped by a bird’s song that gave way to monkey chatter, I envisioned the soundscape in 3D with each unique noise—with its own pitch and volume and frequency—rushing in to inhabit an empty spot, standing tall to make itself known—ta da!–and then vacating just as quickly. Picture Tom Cruise in Minority Report flinging bits of data around in space with his finger…sliding this bit over, that one up, another one off screen, a new one in to replace it. That’s sort of how I saw it.

So, I think of animals as competing not just for a physical niche but for an aural one as well—a slot in the soundspace not yet taken that they can fill with chatter and alarms and music and be heard despite the din. It’s another way to make oneself known in a crowd. The variety makes it all possible: An elephant sending low-frequency rumbles through the Earth reaches her intended even as lions roar and cicadas scream. Like a lioness intent on spotting the weakest gazelle in the herd, an animal can hear a familiar voice and a known language rising above all others.

I don’t know that this is a terribly profound notion, but conversing with the owl, I realized that my flute toots were taking up one tiny pocket of aural space, filling that sound niche just for a moment, then flitting offscreen, leaving that spot vacant for the owl’s reply. Profound or no, it was kind of a neat way to think about it.

–Photo by Joshua J. Cotten on Unsplash

A baleful tale of the snails in Hayle

snails clustering at the top of a leafy plant looking like flowers

If you really squint at a map and spin up your full kindergarten imagination, Great Britain looks like a little cartoon dinosaur roaring at Europe, its tail pointing back across the Atlantic ocean. Zoom in on the tip of that squat tail: this is Cornwall, home of clotted cream and dramatic coastal walks.

a cartoon of the map of Great Britain looking like a dinosaur

Right at the end you’ll find a shaggy little town called Hayle. Hayle’s defining feature is an exceptionally enormous beach, but that’s also pretty much its only feature. That was exactly what we were after. For a few days this summer, we escaped the heat and crowd and stench of London for a settlement of little one-story hobbit houses pressed into the dunes. 

The path from our particular hobbit house to the beach wound along barely existent paths through dry, sharp grasses and brambles that nipped at our ankles and calves. I started to notice that some of these grasses bloomed with an intriguing flower I had never seen, whose pale white whorls looked almost snail-like. I examined them more closely.

Continue reading

Snapshot: The best bug, August edition

Black, brown, and green cicada on a brick step

I’ve said it before and I will say it again: There is a bug that is the best bug, and it is the cicada. We’ve just come out of August, the time of the dog-day cicadas – the ones that come out every year. This one was greeted me on my stoop the other day, as I arrived home after a dog walk.

The dog-day cicadas aren’t like the 17-year cicadas. Well, they are, in that they are also cicadas, and they are also adorable and perfect. The dog-day cicadas are black and green, much subtler than the 17-year cicadas’ wild red eyes and orange decorations. Unlike the 17-year cicadas, the dog-day cicadas arrive in reasonable numbers. And you don’t see them as often; they seem to have an instinct for self-preservation through secrecy, like a normal edible animal. A dog-day cicada has never mistaken my leg for a tree and climbed up it, looking for a mate.

But I do spot them occasionally, over the years. A day or two before this one, I saw two mating on the sidewalk. I ushered the pair over to a sheltered spot among some tree roots, although, linked butt to butt as they were, they looked enough like a poop that they probably weren’t going to get stepped on anyway. “Entomology!” declared a passerby, as I nudged them along and they buzzed wildly – they did not like being disturbed.

I looked at my doorstep cicada and worried about it getting squished later, if I thoughtlessly came back outside to water the oregano or something, so I grasped it firmly, a finger on either side of the thorax, and tossed it toward some plants. But it had bigger dreams; it extended the flight and took its leave by wing, away, past my parked car, into the distance, off to live its short cicada life.

Photo: Helen Fields, obviously

Songs of Home

And here we are enduring another wet blast of late summer’s hot breath, a last gasp before fall blows in. This imminent transition of seasons is always a thoughtful time for me, for many of us. Here’s how I was thinking about it a few years ago.

Squirrels are comforted by birds’ easy chit-chat, new research tells us. Biologists already knew the scurrying rodents tuned into birds’ alarm calls, but they didn’t realize that the mammals responded to songs about the good times, too. Content chirps suggest to squirrels that all is well. 

To me, too.

At this time of year especially I find that sounds tell a comforting story. Here at the edge of the woods, at my Virginia cabin, late summer stretches and layers the crickets’ songs and deepens the quiet. The breezes are still-warm, breathy farewells to August. Birds, less riotous at the feeder, are choosier with their calls but certainly not silent: While no longer desperate to mate, those that don’t migrate still have territory to claim.

Today a few singular voices are cutting through the crickets’ hum–though I’ll admit I confuse the bluejay’s and the red-shouldered hawk’s caws unless I hear them side by side. Somebody’s crisp piercing note rises above another’s cascading dribble. I don’t know who’s who; clearly, I need to work on my bird IDs. But September’s in progress, these voices tell me: Revel in this transitional world.

The ways smells tap into memory, the sounds of home, I find, go deep and loosen knots. 

We have one of those percolating coffee pots–this one handed down two generations now–that truly sputters, moans, and sighs. There is no better, kinder alarm. And the ceiling fan wobbles just a tad, calling attention to itself, promising with its slight rattle that warm days are still to come. (I like to say that winter is still just a whisper in another room.) 

At night, I am early to bed, he stays up late. I lie awake waiting for the whoosh through the pipes, the shower spray’s uneven battering of the tub floor as steam encircles tired shoulders. Then, the squeaky turning of knobs, the water’s silence, the rubbing of towel on skin. And soon, a distinct clack–the front-door lock engaging, thank goodness he remembered–then two snaps: bathroom goes dark, hallway goes dark. Ease. Another day has closed. Tomorrow might be grayer, cooler, the light at a new angle. That’s okay.

And the finale: The dog paws at the blankets at my feet, claws raking against fabric; he circles once, twice, then flops down, waits a beat, and exhales fully. That sigh settles my heartbeat every time.

Fall, of course, will bring its own music—the zip of jackets, the crunch of leaves underfoot, the crackle of fire. These are cliches, perhaps, but powerful just the same.

But this anteroom to fall–as birds settle down (to squirrels’ relief) and the first crumpled leaves meet now-brittle grass (you can hear them land if you really listen)–has its own subtle sounds, those of a dog-tired season beginning to let go.


Birds by Annatsach –  (Wikimedia commons)

Tree by Charles Patrick Ewing (Wikimedia commons)

Fear of Mountain Lions

This post came out a few years ago exploring anxiety and big, wild cats. At that point, there had been no deaths this century from mountain lions in Colorado where I live. New Year’s Day this year that statistic changed when a woman was attacked while alone on a hiking trail not far from the town of Estes Park. Forensics pointed to asphyxiation, meaning the lion had her throat in its jaws and closed off her airway.

Statistically, one should worry far more about cows than mountain lions. Annually, domestic cows in the US kill ten to twenty people — trampled, gored, or by vehicle collisions — while around thirty human deaths have been recorded from mountain lions since widescale recording began in the 1880s. Chances of being killed by a cat in the Americas is negligible, but clearly it’s not zero. Is it worth freaking out?

My wife pieced together a kill in our driveway, sending me pictures of deer tracks posed in a casual walk followed by a sprawl, deer fur in the snow, and faint signs of melt, a couple hours old at most. The next picture was of cat tracks the size of an adult human palm, a good sized mountain lion dragging the deer. A path like that of a saucer sled was left down the drive where the mountain lion gripped the deer’s throat in its teeth and pulled it a couple hundred feet to the canyon’s edge below our house. My wife took pictures and video all the way, and where it hauled the body over the snowy rimrock, her text said she stopped following it. If she were with me she might, but alone no way.

Later, we laid together in bed in the flicker-light of a fire and she recounted finding fresh tracks and studying the kill pattern. The deer, she said, were coming through together, a line of them, no sign of scatter before the attack, so it was swift, not a chase. The kill, she said, struck her as quick, quiet, dutiful, and done.

It happened right behind the house, between the firewood and solar panels, which gives a person pause going out for wood or clearing snow from the panels. We see plenty of cat tracks around here, benches of rimrock in a high desert piñon-juniper biome, perfect place for travel and ambush. In winter they follow deer like sharks trailing a shoal. When deer tracks are around, there will be mountain lions. The rest of the time, snow is mostly blank.

Lately, we’ve been seeing lots of deer tracks and a fresher mountain lion moving through. I go out for wood not afraid so much as aware. I don’t often worry about being attacked. When deer and elk populations dwindle in mountain lion terrain, they tend go down in size, targeting porcupines and house cats. Attacks on humans are rare. Where we live, deer and elk are plenty and lion health is generally good, making a physical confrontation with humans less likely. Bad encounters tend to come from starving or curious juveniles or elders barely holding onto their teeth, not a cat that takes down a full-grown mule deer in a single pounce.

Continue reading

Are Jumping Spiders Capable of Innovation?

Betsy Mason

Innovation is one of those abilities we used to think only humans possessed. But you’ve probably heard about the creative problem solving of New Caledonian crows who are able to build tools by bedding wires to fish food out of holes. Captive orcas have been observed chewing up the dead fish they are fed and spitting them onto the surface of their pools to attract gulls that they then prey on. And elephants are known to pile logs onto electric fences to create a safe crossing.

Most animals that are widely considered capable of innovation are mammals and birds, and scientists point to three things these these species have that are likely prerequisites for this ability: big brains, long lifespans, and complex social lives. 

Spiders, on the other hand, are tiny, short-lived, and mostly solitary. They seem like unlikely innovators, but a new study suggests we may have underestimated spiders’ cognitive capabilities. Again.

Continue reading