Pyramids, Hidden Tunnels, and All the Best Mysteries

This post was originally published on March 21, 2018

I love a good mystery. And in a weird way, I kind of hate it when they are solved. It’s a little like candy. I have a vicious sweet tooth and I love going into a candy story and looking for something to buy. But when I eat it, it’s always a let down. And I also feel like crap.

The point is that mysteries and candy are both more about the process than the resolution. Rock climbing too, I guess. Baseball, Sudoku, Wes Anderson movies – man, I guess everything in my life could boil down to activities that have amazing journeys and disappointing payoffs.

Maybe that’s why I love science so much. You never really get all the answers you want and even when you do there is always a bit at the end where you say, “Scientist still have a lot of questions…” And you keep coming back to see what’s around the next corner.

Nowhere is this more true than archeology. A couple years ago I wrote about a dynasty of Maya rulers that took almost 30 years to uncover. That’s a maddeningly slow process. At the same time in other sciences, measles was eradicated from the Americas, hadron colliders were built and detected Higgs bosons, and genetic engineering, CRISPR and the internet were invented.

But archeology takes its time. I like to think it’s all about the journey. Yesterday I went to my favorite site here in the mountains, Teotihuacan. It was packed and sweltering and I had a furious toddler strapped to my back but it was still just so amazing to stand atop the Pyramid of the Sun and looking out across an ancient metropolis. It was the first archeological site I saw here in Mexico, the subject of my first stories here and still just as stunning as the day I first saw it.

The reason I like it so much is because it was the most powerful city of the Classic Era and we have almost no idea who these people were. We don’t even know if they were ruled by a king or a committee. The Classic Maya, who lived 600 miles away, sort of mentioned a Teotihuacan ruler but the people themselves were oddly silent on the topic (partly because they didn’t have a writing system). As I wrote four years ago in Scientific American, the argument for a king boils down to: “No committee or senate could have coordinated such perfect construction – it had to be a king.” Meanwhile the other side boils down to: “Great, so then where is he?” Teotihuacan has no pictures of kings, no buried tombs, nothing to point to a specific ruler.

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Litterbug

This post originally ran April 25, 2017. It’s almost Earth Day again, and litter still seems like the least of our environmental concerns.

On Saturday, Earth Day, I went for a run. About a mile in, I came upon a bald, middle-aged man. He wore a leather jacket and a Bluetooth headset. I was perhaps twenty feet from him when he chucked a crumpled plastic bag on the ground. Then he got on his bicycle and started peddling away.

I wasn’t quite sure what to do. The man wasn’t moving very fast. I had time to yell. I imagined myself saying, “Excuse me! Sir! You dropped your bag.” This made his action sound like an accident, but I what else could I say? I wasn’t looking for a confrontation.

Instead, I did nothing. I let the man ride off. I left the bag where it lay. I kept running. And for the next 43 sweaty minutes, I thought about the man, the bag, and my reaction.

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This is a Post About Porcupines

Not every juicy morsel works in every recipe. As a writer, I often come across something meaty, think, HUH! and then drag the link to a rarely visited desktop folder because, you know, I’m not writing a piece about using a dildo in zero gravity. (This time.) (Note to self: Pitch story on space-appropriate sex toys.)

I’m actually working on an article about porcupines for National Wildlife magazine. My outline includes things like porcupine population dynamics and porcupine courtship rituals. It does not include anything about skinning and eating or stuffing and mounting porcupines.

Thank you LWON for giving me a safe space to investigate…whatever the hell.

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Beetles, Time Travelers

This post originally appeared March 10, 2017. Enjoy!

Baseball-sized brown balls in a brown box

In the summer of 2011, the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History was in the process of doing some bug relocation. Specifically, they were moving some of their beetles from the museum building downtown out to a storage facility in the suburbs—specifically, the non-plant-eating scarabs.

It was a lot of scarabs. The museum has a lot of bugs and a lot of them are beetles, and 696 drawers full of them were being moved. In the last cabinet, at the bottom, collections manager Floyd Shockley noticed an odd box—not any of the standard containers that the museum uses to store bugs.

Inside were the brown, dirty balls pictured above. An abandoned papier-mache project? Nuts? Hairballs?

None of the above. Shockley, who is a beetle guy, knew instantly what they were: poop. 

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Freeman Dyson is 95

The last time I saw Dyson, maybe six months ago, I wondered whether he might be slowing down a little; on the other hand it was a Friday night at dinnertime, when all natural creatures slow down a little. This post first appeared October 7, 2013; it’s been updated here and there.

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I do seem to keep referring to Freeman Dyson, even writing whole posts about him.  The reason, I think, is that I want to write a profile of him, even though 1) profiles of him have been done and done and done, the most recent being a full-blown biography; and 2) he’s way above my pay grade.  The closest I can come to describing him is to say that he’s not like anyone I’ve met before.  

When he’d turned 90, his long-time home, the Institute for Advanced Study in Princeton, gave him the kind of party scientists give each other:  a day of talks on the subject on which the scientist has spent his/her life – like, say, low-mass stars.  For Dyson, the Institute needed two days and four different subjects and even then I don’t know how they narrowed it down.

They called it Dreams of Earth and Sky*, and like Dyson himself, the talks were faintly contrarian.  The first day they did physics and math.  Dyson’s most important contribution to physics was a long time ago but it was fundamental: he reconciled two disjoint views of quantum mechanics.  None of the physics talks were on quantum mechanics; one was on chemistry, another on climate change.  Of Dyson’s math, I understand not one particle iota bit but one physicist told a Dyson-math story, variants of which I’ve heard many times: as a PhD student, the physicist needed a mathematical proof for his dissertation, he couldn’t figure it out, neither could his adviser, they decided to do without.  Dyson was on his examination committee, said nothing about the missing proof and passed him; and afterward handed him a piece of paper with the proof written on it.

The second day was astronomy and public policy.  The astronomers talked about the search for habitable planets and the requirements for the evolution of life on Mars.  Britain’s Astronomer Royal — Martin Rees, Baron Rees of Ludlow – explained that the multiverse needs gravity, a departure from thermal equilibrium, a balance between matter and anti-matter, and at least one star.  The policy people talked about whether taking the world’s nuclear weapons down to zero was illogical, how we can solve our energy problems with unusually innovative technologies, and how to apply a math game called the Bandit Problem to the ethics of clinical trials.

All these talks — technical and scientific, full of equations — were right up Dyson’s alley. He’s contributed to and written about all these fields. I suspect he was the only person in the audience of educated and intelligent people who understood all of them.

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Dyson’s older sister, Alice, remembers him as a little boy, sitting surrounded by encyclopedias and sheets of paper on which he was calculating things. He grew up to be deeply humane, sharply aware of other people, and always curious about them.

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Dyson talks about his family a lot, his wife and his six kids. I was walking across the Institute’s campus with him once and he was telling me about his son, George, and George’s book on Project Orion, and George’s book on Darwin.  George had been a difficult child and rebelled against his parents, their life in Princeton, and Princeton itself, and had to get away.  He went across the continent somewhere and became a boat builder.  But he’d since come back and in fact, was temporarily at the Institute to research his fourth book, on computers.  “George is here now, you know, at the Institute, my colleague now,” Dyson was telling me. “It’s such a delight, to be colleagues with him.” George has no patience with the intellectual life, Dyson said, and likes things concrete and real. “George builds boats with his own hands,” he said, and said again, “and now he’s here for a year, he’s my colleague.  It’s so wonderful.”  We turned down a brick path and there walking toward us was a taller, more robust version of Dyson.  “Oh, it’s George!” said Dyson.  He lit up like Christmas, he looked like the morning of the world.  “It’s my son, George!”

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Werner Heisenberg was great quantum physicist who worked on a nuclear reactor for the Nazis, failed because he calculated the critical mass wrong, and spent a lot of time thereafter in self-justification. I wrote in a comment to a post about Farm Hall that Heisenberg had three loyalties: 1) to himself and his reputation; 2) to theoretical physics; and 3) to pre-Nazi Germany.  Dyson wrote back in an email that Heisenberg’s wartime letters to his wife, Elizabeth or Li, show that his first loyalty was to his family, to Li and their six children.  Li was “a very strong woman,” Dyson wrote.  “I remember when I met the Heisenbergs in Germany after the war, I thought, ‘There go MacBeth and Lady MacBeth.’”

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I watched Dreams of Earth and Sky as a live stream on the computer.  I was interrupted by an email from a friend saying that a 90-year old scientist we’d both interviewed and admired was in the hospital.  “I know people can’t live forever,” she said, “but I’m selfishly hoping he’ll make it a few more years.” 

Meanwhile, the live stream was continuing.  At one point, a speaker wanted to hand something to Dyson from the stage but the stage was brightly lit and the audience where Dyson was sitting was dark. “I can’t see our honoree,” said the speaker. “Freeman, where are you?”  Up from the dark shot a hand that waved and waved, silhouetted against the light:  here I am <wave, wave> I’m right here <wave> I’m here.

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* If you want to know what the talks were really about, read Curious Wavefunction’s post.  Not only was he there in person, he understood most of the talks.  And he writes clearly.  So yes, read it.

Photo credits:  Dyson in his IAS office, 2007 – monroem, via Wikimedia

Color Theories

Summer is coming. In a few months the foothills surrounding my home will turn blonde, then grey. Streams will dwindle, then peter out. After fire season begins, everything will be covered in ash.

That’s the reality of summer in the Sierra Nevada foothills these days. But right now it’s spring, and what a spring. The mountains are loaded with snow and the rivers are running high. It looks like someone scribbled on the hills with a neon green highlighter. And the flowers, oh the flowers are as good as they get, entire hillsides glazed with golden poppies and shooting stars.

I celebrated the spring bounty last weekend by taking a painting class from an artist named Andie Thrams. Andie’s densely layered watercolors have always felt like home to me, probably because she works not far from the house where I grew up. Her work captures ecological niches in exquisite detail, spanning from the tangled grey pine forests of the Sierra Nevada to the coastal rainforests of Alaska.

For me, Andie’s paintings evoke the smell of pine sap, the feeling of running my fingers along smooth madrone bark and pressing my nose to wet moss. When I lived far away, just looking at Andie’s paintings made me homesick. So when I saw that she was offering a painting workshop, I signed up.

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Redux: Unintentional treevotee

This post original published on Nov. 20, 2017

I never meant for this to happen.

When I moved to the Pacific Northwest from arid Colorado three years ago, I was one of those people who insisted on horizons.

The town where I was born is a place where the foothills of the Rockies stand like a cliffy coastline overlooking a dry sea of plains. From their height, you can watch the change of light roll through the day like surf, can see storms so far away that lightning comes without sound—a flicker on the dark edge of awareness.

Even now, if you asked me what landscape makes me feel so big and free that I might crack right in half, I would say alpine tundra—the naked, velvet crowns of our sky islands, with their pikas and marmots and ptarmigan, with their cushion plants smaller than mixing bowls but older than I’ll ever be. More…

All Systems Go, Brace For Landing

crescent-moon-and-mountainside

On Wednesday, April 11, if all goes to plan, a small spacecraft from Israel will alight on the surface of the Moon. It will be the first time any probe has done so under a private flag — that is to say, it is not a taxpayer-built spaceship sent by a country in its own national interest. That makes it pretty unique. The community of lunar scientists and Moon enthusiasts is watching, and celebrated when the spacecraft successfully entered lunar orbit April 4.

The lander, called Beresheet, reportedly cost $100 million, including the price of its ticket to space aboard a SpaceX rocket. It has modest goals, including measuring the Moon’s magnetic fields, as well as testing a laser retroreflector technology for NASA. Such a setup could help future spacecraft land more accurately. But Beresheet’s main mission is pure excitement. Let’s do it because we can! (And because Sheldon Adelson will help pay for it.)

The lander was conceived under the auspices of the Google Lunar X Prize, a competition to land a privately financed spacecraft on the Moon and beam home some video. That competition ended last year without a winner, and I wrote an elegy for it, of sorts, which I thought I should share here.

The following originally appeared April 2, 2018, under the headline “We did not go back to the Moon, because it is hard.”

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