We’re not in Kansas anymore

It has been brought to my attention that I know very little about tornadoes. There are only two things that I know about them, in fact. They are a corkscrew of wind, and they helped Dorothy get to Oz. But do they start from the bottom or from the top? Can they travel over a mountain? What about a mountain that’s more like a cliff? That is, could a tornado go up the Dawn Wall? And aren’t they one of the few natural disasters that California doesn’t have?

Well, I have learned the answer to the last question: no. (Or, I think it’s no. There are too many negatives in that question.) What I mean to say is, we had a tornado warning last week, and I realized I had absolutely no idea what to do about it.

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The salmonid industrial complex

This past summer, an ecologist named Erik Beever sent me a new paper he’d published on a class of critters you might call charismatic invaders: introduced species that are at once ecologically disastrous and deeply beloved. Erik and his coauthors offered a few examples, some you’ve heard of — like wild horses — and some that perhaps you haven’t. If you knew, for instance, that non-native ring-necked parakeets have been known to peck Belgian bats to death, well, you probably have more vivid nightmares than me.

I took a special, proprietary interest in one of Erik’s charming invader groups: introduced salmon and trout. Non-native salmonids have furnished some of my happiest memories. Driving through Utah more than a decade ago, I stopped at a Forest Service ranger station staffed by an elderly volunteer who was appalled to learn that I’d grown up an ignoble bait fisherman rather than an urbane fly angler. He insisted on taking me fly-fishing the next day, a lesson that spawned a lifelong obsession. And, on that fateful, seminal morning, what quarry sucked down the elk-hair caddis that I clumsily chucked at its hole? A European brown trout, Salmo trutta, imported to the desert in a fit of aquatic settler-colonialism. 

We anglers have an inflated sense of our environmental self-worth: Fishermen, after all, pushed for the Clean Water Act, and our license fees still prop up state wildlife agencies. But we’re also the world’s most shameless invasive species apologists. It was anglers, or at least their surrogates, who plopped Pacific salmon in the Great Lakes, eastern brook trout in Yellowstone, browns in Patagonia, and rainbow trout, well, pretty much everywhere. We carpet-bomb alpine lakes with fingerlings, pushing out native amphibians in the process. Recreation, time and again, has trumped ecology. Stocking the Sierra Nevada, argued John Muir, would “become the means of drawing thousands of visitors into the mountains… Trout-fishing regarded as bait for catching men, for the saving of both body and soul, is important, and deserves all the expense and care bestowed upon it.”

Muir was inadvertently describing what Erik Beever, in his paper, terms a “social-ecological mismatch” — a situation in which societal priorities contravene environmental ones. Most invasive species, of course, don’t have constituents: As far as I know, there’s no organization devoted to promoting the zebra mussel, which makes it pretty easy to convince people to, say, clean the hulls of their boats. Introduced salmon and trout, on the other hand, are the widely adored bulwarks of a multi-billion-dollar recreational angling industry. Our prejudicial affinity for sportfish blinds us to sound conservation. In New Zealand, Australia, and South America, for instance, brown trout benefit from greater protections than do native galaxiids, a group of fishes whose dreary common names — whitebait, spotted minnow, mudfish — hint at just how little they’re valued.

All this makes things pretty darn tough for the ecologically sensitive angler. American streams are dominated today by rainbow trout, Pacific Rim natives that have been so thoroughly domesticated, manipulated, and propagated by fish hatcheries they’ve been deemed “entirely synthetic.” They’re also, admittedly, a hell of a lot of fun to catch: hard-fighting on the line, gorgeous in the net, delicious on the plate. I’ve caught them in New York, Colorado, Montana, Massachusetts, and a half-dozen other states where they don’t belong. And every time I do, I feel a twinge of guilt for my complicity in the Salmonid Industrial Complex. Not enough of a twinge, granted, that I ever stop fishing.

Escaping the weight of that guilt has been one of the best things about moving to eastern Washington. Here in the Inland Northwest, we’re blessed with endemic redband rainbow trout, a unique and cherished subspecies whose flanks are painted with a vivid sunset blush. Rainbows aren’t just native to the Spokane River, they’re special — the resource that, more than any other, has catalyzed the river’s revival from untreated sewage canal and sacrificial PCB dumping grounds to something vaguely resembling a healthy watercourse. Rather than incurring a social-ecological mismatch, in other words, Spokane’s rainbow trout are agents of alignment, ensuring that environmental priorities — a clean(ish) river — cohere with the desires of anglers.

In a way, of course, this is all a bit of a cop-out. Rather than actually grappling with the ways in which my beloved trout damage aquatic ecosystems, I’ve simply moved to a place that allows me to recast my angling compulsion as ecologically beneficent. I’m nothing if not weak-willed. Still, it’s a curious joy to catch fish where they belong, to slip your hand beneath rose-hued evolutionary perfection in a river that smells only faintly of human feces, and realize you’ve arrived at that rarest of confluences — a social-ecological match. 

Photo: Interior redband rainbow trout, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service

Words to leave behind

As we entered the third decade of the third millennium, many of the science and tech words and phrases in popular circulation had lost all meaning. “AI”, “machine learning” and their newer synonym, “cognitive technology”, for example, had joined the pantheon of synonyms for “snake oil“. Or at least they were becoming placeholders for anything any company wanted you to believe. 

And oh, the word salads that have been mixed from data and oil!

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I Honestly Feel We’re Not Paying Enough Attention to Betelgeuse*

*Now with UPDATES, below:

Betelgeuse (pronounced Beetlejuice) is a star, the red one on the left shoulder of Orion. You’ve seen it. One of the whole points of stars is that you can just look up and count on seeing them. The earth turns underneath them so it’s true that depending on time and geography, when you look up you see different ones. But if you always look at the same time and from the same place, you’d always see the same ones, looking like they always look. Because that’s what stars are — they’re unchanging, fixed, steady**. People change, cities change, even the land changes. But this time of year, in Baltimore, I look out the south window and there’s Betelgeuse, always and evermore.

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Waterpocket, Tinaja, Kissing Pool

Yesterday, I took a walk in the winter desert where snow on sandstone melted and filled dishes eroded into rock. A common local name for these shallow catchments, just enough to drink, is waterpocket. You’ll also hear kissing pool. That’s how you access them, down on your knees, lips touching the surface.

Water conveys itself into rock. As if matching the spherical, beaded will of fluids, holes form into bowls and circles. In ragged terrain, they are like seeds. I shouldn’t recommend you drink from them, and I’ve never gotten sick from doing just that, but it’s worth a try, good for the stomach. Running water concerns me. You rarely know what it’s been traveling through. In these holes, you can tell where the water originated, a watershed of only immediate vicinity.

In the southern desert, northern Mexico and southern Arizona, they’re called tinajas, and some are deep enough for a cannonball dive. They form where rainwater cascades across bedrock, eroding holes that grow as sand and smaller rocks tumble inside the space, nicking and scraping. The can be the size of rooms, deep enough a swim to the bottom hurts your ears. Water and sediment polish them into fluted shapes, elegant necks and lips as smooth as ceramic pitchers.

Decades ago, I mapped and measured tinajas near the Arizona border with Mexico, where I found water hidden in one of the driest parts of North America, sometimes hundreds of gallons of old precipitation protected by shade, depths patrolled by swimming fairy shrimp, floors populated with shelled crustaceans the size of poppy seeds, called ostracods. To find these sites, I followed ancient, broken potsherds and read through the journals of a 17th century Jesuit missionary who made forays across this desert, recording tinajas wherever his team took water. The missionary discovered thousands of gallons glowing in moonlight, and called it Aguaje de la Luna, the watering place of the moon. It is rumored to be any one of a number of holes, some of which I found, and some remain a mystery.

The ones I found yesterday were simple, nameless, a gallon or two at most, enough to skim a kiss. They were not formed by running water as much as slow, molecular picking, the sandstone coming apart grain by grain. For me, they are a way of measuring the desert. To see them gleaming miles in the distance means abundance in small packages, places to come to your knees and drink.


Photo of one of yesterday’s waterpockets in western Colorado, by the author.

Children Like Sand

This post originally ran October 30, 2017

Sand blowing and grains hurdling over each other, landing and knocking the next, is called saltation. This is how dunes move, not sheering chaos, but each grain effecting the other, billiard balls knocking each other down the line.

Kids found that if they stood on a dune crest, there was so much saltation, sand blowing in the wind, that they could cast shadows of themselves into the air, making holograms of their bodies in airborne particles.

This was a couple weeks ago in the tallest sand dunes in the United States, their biggest sand features rising 750 above the floor of the San Luis Valley in southern Colorado. Saltation was everywhere around us, wind whipping, scouring our bare feet. We loaded packs and headed in, planning for three nights in a realm of sinuous snake backs and ripples.

Great Sand Dunes National Park is what is known as an erg, a sand sea, a small one on the global scaled, 30 square miles compared to 255,000 square miles in the Empty Quarter of the Middle East. The dunes came from river sediments and dried lake beds blown toward the Sangre de Cristo mountains and stacked up into the only erg for more than 300 miles (the nearest other is White Sands in southern New Mexico).

Our entry was sunny, winds hard out of the west, but weather would turn by morning, temperatures forecast for ten below freezing and higher winds, snow likely. But the sand was still warm, the sun still out. When your kids have a week off, that’s your window, you go. Continue reading

End of Decade Viewing

Our first love may have been the written word, but the People of LWON are also avid watchers of film and television. Here’s what has been flickering across our screens this year:

Jessa: My most moving television experience of 2019 has been the BBC and HBO co-production Years and Years. The inciting incident is that in his last days in office, an embattled and nihilistic Trump fires a nuclear weapon, precipitating an entirely believable dystopian near future. This drama series includes the amazing Rory Kinnear, whom I would watch in anything, as well as Emma Thompson in the role of a populist UK prime minister. I found the whole thing disturbing in a useful way. Do persist beyond the first episode, which feels a bit didactic.

Jenny: I’ll admit it: I love the whodunits, but I find the most popular police shows to be trite and painfully tidy (I’m looking at you, Law & Order. Dun Dun.). Recently I clicked on CRIMINAL (Netflix) and was pleased to find a short interrogation-room psychological drama, really interesting and well-acted stuff, messy like real life. And the show happens to come in four languages with four casts. The little series of 3 episodes–one in English, one in German, one in French, one in Spanish–use the same story template, and even take place on the same set. But each is its own narrative, and each lets dribble some behind-the-scenes messiness that paints the “good guys” gray. Take one miniseries as a slice of pie–nibble at it, savor it–then move on to the next for a very different flavor. 

Meanwhile, if you never got around to watching Fleabag, get to it.

Cameron: I went on a cross-country airplane flight by myself this year for the first time in . . . ah. . . a decade? And I would basically recommend watching any movie, by yourself, on an airplane. It was truly delightful. I loved Booksmart, about two girls on their last night of high school. The truth is, I loved everything. I loved Yesterday, because I do remember the Beatles even though I don’t know who Ed Sheeran is. I loved The Biggest Little Farm, a documentary about a couple starting a sustainable farm. I loved The Imitation Game, which about Alan Turing (who is played by Benedict Cumberbatch). And then I also loved Mamma Mia, Here We Go Again! Seriously, I liked it so much I cried at the end. Because I was alone! On an airplane! 

Emma: I like space shows, and The Expanse on Amazon is a really good one. It is set in the future and is more ‘realistic’ than the average. In particular, I love their loving attention to the physics of spaceflight and zero-gravity environments. Early seasons focus on political tensions between Earth, Mars, and the outer planets. The casting is excellent, and I live for the wardrobe of UN politico Chrisjen Avasarala. I also recommend Russian Doll on Netflix. Natasha Lyonne is wonderful as a selfish, confident, lovable woman stuck in a time loop, and the supporting cast are all compulsively watchable. Plus the entire show clocks in at less than four hours, so it is perfect for those, like me, who are basically stuck in our own time loops. 

Cassie: Fleabag. Fleabag Fleabag Fleabag. Best thing I’ve watched. So I’ll enthusiastically second Jenny’s recommendation on that. (A warning: it did take me a few episodes to get over the raunch and into the show.) And then I’ll second Emma’s Russian Doll recommendation. SO GOOD. And I’ll add one original recommendation: GLOW. This Netflix series about lady wrestlers in the 1980s is so smart and entertaining. I binged. And then I finished the most recent season. And now I will remain in mourning until they release Season 4. And one final note: they released Deadwood: The Movie this year. It’s unfortunate timing. Deadwood (the series) ended in 2006. Watching the movie, I struggled to remember all the characters and their various rivalries and grievances. It made me want to re-watch the series and then re-watch the movie. So if you DO want to watch and enjoy the movie, maybe watch at least some of the series first to refresh your memory. That will also give your brain time to re-accustom itself to the odd Shakespearean dialogue.

Michelle: Almost as brilliant as Fleabag and Russian Doll is The End of the F***ing World, another coal-black comedy with a hidden sweet heart. It stars Alex Lawther’s microexpressions. May there never be a third season—the end of the second is perfect. I also really enjoyed the Criminal series: three episodes in each of four countries, all set in the same interrogation room and in front of the same coffee machine, add up to twelve very satisfying one-act plays. Right now, though, my family is passing the time before the final episode of His Dark Materials by wondering how each of our daemons would settle. 

For more recommendations, here are the previous five years’ film & TV lists:

2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014

Also, Merry Christmas, LWON readers! We appreciate you.