Leaving / Imprints

Mom spreads maps over the dining room table. They’re oldish, not ancient, but the home I see in them is not the home I know. They are all of Colorado—mostly cities at the nexus of Rocky Mountains and High Plains, 40, 50, 60 years ago. The outpost of Ward, a funky old mining town up a sinuous dry canyon, guarded by two guys with broadswords. The hopping university town of Fort Collins, then just a smallish scatter of purple squares along a tidy grid of streets. And there’s Boulder in 1957, my hometown, where I’m visiting my family for the turn of the New Year.

We press the map folds flat with our fingers and lean closer. The city then was a tiny yolk at the core of its current footprint, pressed hard against the mountains. The mesa where my parents live formed its eastward boundary, a new neighborhood then, not yet swallowed and sprawled miles beyond with malls and business parks and subdivisions and natural gas wells, the fingers of the city and its neighbors creeping outward over the plains, grasping each other to form an amoeba of light and noise that pulses with traffic along a vasculature of roads. A place forever swallowing itself. Becoming new and new again, without becoming better.

Every time I come back, I grumble about how much things have changed since I was a kid. For all my sharp words, though, there’s something unchanging here. It rises in me when I see the rolling ponderosa-covered waves of the foothills breaking on the snowy, treeless slopes of the high Rockies to the west, when I see the plains reaching boundlessly east, haloed pink at the days’ two turns, from and towards darkness.

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The Things We Carry

If you stand around an airport bathroom a little longer than necessary, you may witness a few steps toward the fall of human civilization. Because nobody, and I mean nobody, washes their hands well enough to kill off the funk we humans pick up and carry around.

I did this experiment on a recent trip. At the Albuquerque Airport I watched 8 different women as they exited a toilet stall and headed for the sinks. One of them simply fixed her hair in the mirror and left. Three others gestured at a wash–running their hands under the faucet for about a second before flicking away the water; two of those grabbed a towel from the thankfully automatic roll, the other used her sweatshirt to dry off. Four ladies actually used a squirt of soap, but the longest “scrub” was about five seconds long, and only two of the women actually rubbed the soap over their whole hands, not just the palm sides. Continue reading

Airplanes and Bees

If you were to think about it, where would you think the first eyewitness account of one of the Wright brothers’ flights would have appeared in print?

I’d guess the New York Times, maybe. A local newspaper in North Carolina or Ohio. Perhaps a venerable old science magazine like Scientific American.

Well, I would be wrong, because it actually appeared in a magazine called Gleanings in Bee Culture. In the January 1, 1905 issue, alongside articles like “Queens Mating More Than Once” and “How to Wash Out Kerosene Cans,” founder Amos Root wrote a very enthusiastic account of one of the brothers’ Ohio flights.

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We’re not in Kansas anymore

It has been brought to my attention that I know very little about tornadoes. There are only two things that I know about them, in fact. They are a corkscrew of wind, and they helped Dorothy get to Oz. But do they start from the bottom or from the top? Can they travel over a mountain? What about a mountain that’s more like a cliff? That is, could a tornado go up the Dawn Wall? And aren’t they one of the few natural disasters that California doesn’t have?

Well, I have learned the answer to the last question: no. (Or, I think it’s no. There are too many negatives in that question.) What I mean to say is, we had a tornado warning last week, and I realized I had absolutely no idea what to do about it.

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The salmonid industrial complex

This past summer, an ecologist named Erik Beever sent me a new paper he’d published on a class of critters you might call charismatic invaders: introduced species that are at once ecologically disastrous and deeply beloved. Erik and his coauthors offered a few examples, some you’ve heard of — like wild horses — and some that perhaps you haven’t. If you knew, for instance, that non-native ring-necked parakeets have been known to peck Belgian bats to death, well, you probably have more vivid nightmares than me.

I took a special, proprietary interest in one of Erik’s charming invader groups: introduced salmon and trout. Non-native salmonids have furnished some of my happiest memories. Driving through Utah more than a decade ago, I stopped at a Forest Service ranger station staffed by an elderly volunteer who was appalled to learn that I’d grown up an ignoble bait fisherman rather than an urbane fly angler. He insisted on taking me fly-fishing the next day, a lesson that spawned a lifelong obsession. And, on that fateful, seminal morning, what quarry sucked down the elk-hair caddis that I clumsily chucked at its hole? A European brown trout, Salmo trutta, imported to the desert in a fit of aquatic settler-colonialism. 

We anglers have an inflated sense of our environmental self-worth: Fishermen, after all, pushed for the Clean Water Act, and our license fees still prop up state wildlife agencies. But we’re also the world’s most shameless invasive species apologists. It was anglers, or at least their surrogates, who plopped Pacific salmon in the Great Lakes, eastern brook trout in Yellowstone, browns in Patagonia, and rainbow trout, well, pretty much everywhere. We carpet-bomb alpine lakes with fingerlings, pushing out native amphibians in the process. Recreation, time and again, has trumped ecology. Stocking the Sierra Nevada, argued John Muir, would “become the means of drawing thousands of visitors into the mountains… Trout-fishing regarded as bait for catching men, for the saving of both body and soul, is important, and deserves all the expense and care bestowed upon it.”

Muir was inadvertently describing what Erik Beever, in his paper, terms a “social-ecological mismatch” — a situation in which societal priorities contravene environmental ones. Most invasive species, of course, don’t have constituents: As far as I know, there’s no organization devoted to promoting the zebra mussel, which makes it pretty easy to convince people to, say, clean the hulls of their boats. Introduced salmon and trout, on the other hand, are the widely adored bulwarks of a multi-billion-dollar recreational angling industry. Our prejudicial affinity for sportfish blinds us to sound conservation. In New Zealand, Australia, and South America, for instance, brown trout benefit from greater protections than do native galaxiids, a group of fishes whose dreary common names — whitebait, spotted minnow, mudfish — hint at just how little they’re valued.

All this makes things pretty darn tough for the ecologically sensitive angler. American streams are dominated today by rainbow trout, Pacific Rim natives that have been so thoroughly domesticated, manipulated, and propagated by fish hatcheries they’ve been deemed “entirely synthetic.” They’re also, admittedly, a hell of a lot of fun to catch: hard-fighting on the line, gorgeous in the net, delicious on the plate. I’ve caught them in New York, Colorado, Montana, Massachusetts, and a half-dozen other states where they don’t belong. And every time I do, I feel a twinge of guilt for my complicity in the Salmonid Industrial Complex. Not enough of a twinge, granted, that I ever stop fishing.

Escaping the weight of that guilt has been one of the best things about moving to eastern Washington. Here in the Inland Northwest, we’re blessed with endemic redband rainbow trout, a unique and cherished subspecies whose flanks are painted with a vivid sunset blush. Rainbows aren’t just native to the Spokane River, they’re special — the resource that, more than any other, has catalyzed the river’s revival from untreated sewage canal and sacrificial PCB dumping grounds to something vaguely resembling a healthy watercourse. Rather than incurring a social-ecological mismatch, in other words, Spokane’s rainbow trout are agents of alignment, ensuring that environmental priorities — a clean(ish) river — cohere with the desires of anglers.

In a way, of course, this is all a bit of a cop-out. Rather than actually grappling with the ways in which my beloved trout damage aquatic ecosystems, I’ve simply moved to a place that allows me to recast my angling compulsion as ecologically beneficent. I’m nothing if not weak-willed. Still, it’s a curious joy to catch fish where they belong, to slip your hand beneath rose-hued evolutionary perfection in a river that smells only faintly of human feces, and realize you’ve arrived at that rarest of confluences — a social-ecological match. 

Photo: Interior redband rainbow trout, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service

Words to leave behind

As we entered the third decade of the third millennium, many of the science and tech words and phrases in popular circulation had lost all meaning. “AI”, “machine learning” and their newer synonym, “cognitive technology”, for example, had joined the pantheon of synonyms for “snake oil“. Or at least they were becoming placeholders for anything any company wanted you to believe. 

And oh, the word salads that have been mixed from data and oil!

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I Honestly Feel We’re Not Paying Enough Attention to Betelgeuse*

*Now with UPDATES, below:

Betelgeuse (pronounced Beetlejuice) is a star, the red one on the left shoulder of Orion. You’ve seen it. One of the whole points of stars is that you can just look up and count on seeing them. The earth turns underneath them so it’s true that depending on time and geography, when you look up you see different ones. But if you always look at the same time and from the same place, you’d always see the same ones, looking like they always look. Because that’s what stars are — they’re unchanging, fixed, steady**. People change, cities change, even the land changes. But this time of year, in Baltimore, I look out the south window and there’s Betelgeuse, always and evermore.

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